Looking back over a life in gun dogs, I can see a number of instances where I have observed pointing dogs that were unwilling or simply not pre-disposed to retrieve. It has always given me a bit of satisfaction to see a flushing dog, optimally a spaniel, come in after a point-flush-shoot sequence to mop up, and to return to the handler those dead birds or cripples that the pointers were unable, or unwilling, to pursue. I'm a flushing guy at heart, and though I recognize the value and beauty of a good pointing dog at work, the ability for a flushing dog to rout out and then retrieve a downed bird holds a special kind of magic. Moreover, the greater assurance that my dog will be able to find and bring back what I, or my hunters, have shot does a good deal to sooth my conscience.

I'd go so far as to say flushing dogs are, on the whole, superior retrievers.

Though retrieving comes fairly naturally to most flushing spaniels (and of course to flushing retrievers), there are steps that can and should be followed to ensure that the retrieving instinct takes hold early and is pursued by both dog and trainer with enthusiasm. In this installment of “The Flush,” we will explore the best ways to initiate and cultivate that retrieve, beginning with selective breeding, and progressing to a conditioned response that should be fun for both dog and handler.

Remember first that all working dogs are the product of intentional breeding, and the process of refining desirable inclinations or characteristics over successive generations. Flushing spaniels have been bred to retrieve, and their ability and desire to do so should be evident in the selective bloodline of the individual. I feel like a bit of a broken record in referring to the importance of proven breeding, but regarding retrieving, it does play out: A dog with a bloodline that is full of performers, whether in the field trial arena or in the hunt field, should ensure replicable performance in the offspring. A flusher would not have been valued in the field if it could not reliably retrieve. A lineage of success, and successive breeding of proven retrievers, should all but guarantee that a pup will come into the world with a genetic predisposition to chase an object, pick it up, and bring it back to the owner or handler.

So, once that well-bred pup comes home, what can the owner do to get the foundations of a good strong retrieve established? Honestly, the first few steps in the process overlap nicely with other best practices that will serve the pup in all its training, and its future development as a working flusher. Think of it this way: The retrieve is essentially just a combination of a drive to chase and pick up combined with a desire to come back to the owner/handler and check in/make contact. If we can break these predisposed desires into a formal process, refine it to meet our needs with consistency, and make the dog want to repeat the process, we have a solid, reliable gun dog on our hands. It therefore becomes a stairstep method, the early stages of which hinge on making the dog want to perform the task.

Cultivating a desire for retrieving starts with establishing a reward system that the young dog will respond to. A new pup, 9 or 10 weeks of age, should be welcomed into the home or kennel by an owner/handler that is eager to reward that pup with treats. In the earliest days, a pup that comes to the handler and is treated for doing so will quickly correlate the return to that handler with positive reinforcement. The commands are not in place yet, but when the pup is out exploring the yard or the home, a little whistle or call or other attention getting action should cue the pup to come check in. This action should be rewarded, and the process repeated. Once that process has been established, and practiced, the actual retrieve desire can become a fun point of focus.

First Steps

In the house, I like to begin in a confined space like a hallway. Up the enthusiasm by being energetic. Place the pup in the open end of the hallway and toss a tennis ball towards the closed end. The distance can be short, maybe 10 or 15 feet, but when the object goes bouncing down the hallway, the pup will be inclined to chase and pick it up. Once the object is in the pup's mouth, whistle or say “pup, pup, pup” or something similar, and encourage the pup back to you. Once he is keyed in on you and in front of you with the object, give treats and praise. If the pup is possessive of the object and won't give it up, offer a better treat, and gently take the object from him. Repeat this drill in short sequences. The beauty of a hallway is that the pup will have little recourse other than to return to the handler, which he will naturally be inclined to do. This process over time will establish a good, straight retrieve to the handler, and the treat will be an incentive.

Our first step in training to develop drive requires that we make this process fun. There should be no need for a lead or a stern command. If the pup is resistant or does not wish to carry the object all the way back, simply ignore and move back a bit. Doing so should incline the dog to retrieve more fully. Also, whenever possible create eye contact when the reward is given and/or the object is taken. The process should include a clear if unspoken expectation that the pup is keyed into the owner, who in turn holds something of great value to the pup.

It is vital to remember, even at this early stage, that pressure or toughness will result in nothing of value. Take your time. Don't worry about steadiness early on. Let the dog chase when the object is tossed, and don't worry if the retrieve is imprecise. At this stage we are just establishing a positive relational environment that the pup is eager to engage in.

As the pup grows and the action becomes more routine, stretch out a bit. Make a longer environment, or eventually take the game outside. Again, move slowly through a progression. Toss a ball or bumper a bit farther, and maybe relax the boundaries within which the game can be played. In the yard, toss a ball five yards, then 10. Again, if the pup deviates or carries the object away, or if the object is dropped during the recall portion, ignore and take a few steps away. The pup should want to pick up and come to you. If he does not, and if he seems resistant to perform the game as planned, simply take a break. Try again the next day, or in closer quarters, or move back to the hallway. It will eventually all come together.

Resist the temptation to move to using a bird too quickly, but once the pup is engaged in this game and performing well, try a dead bird. A wing-clipped or hobbled bird at this point could prove too much stimulation or could in fact scare the pup. Move slowly, and build sequentially, introducing a dead bird or a wing-clipped quail, then maybe a pigeon.

Evolving the Retrieve

While this process is evolving, you may, and likely should, be working on the recall. Your recall work can be overlayed in these sessions, eventually with a recall command. Make sure that there are checks and balances in place; if the pup does not have a strong understanding of the command, the distraction of a bird or a ball could prove too confusing, and both skills will be negatively impacted. I generally do not use a cord or lead to enforce the recall with a retrieve on top of it, but as the pup gets older and more clear about expectations, it may be necessary to use these tools.

The key at this stage is to remain vigilant, and to not overdo the training. If the pup is proving so treat-motivated that the reward becomes the focus and not the retrieve, back up and don't treat as heavily, or focus more on praise. If the pup becomes erratic or inconsistent, take a break.

The beauty of retrieve training is that the retrieve should, along with prey drive, become a high-level motivator for the pup. The desire to chase and pick up will likely be so much fun for the pup that the introduction of additional stressors such as gunfire should be mitigated. When gun conditioning comes into play, or when big flappy birds like pigeons are introduced, the desire for these motivating factors should override the stress of a new loud noise.