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Teaching Your Dog to Blood Track: A Step-by-Step Guide

Expert tracking trainer Sondra Rolison shares how to train a precise, reliable blood tracking dog from start to finish.

Teaching Your Dog to Blood Track: A Step-by-Step Guide

Teaching a dog to blood track is useful, but it takes time and patience. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford)

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Blood tracking is a skill that requires more than just a strong nose—it requires precision, patience, and communication between dog and handler. A well-trained tracking dog does not rely solely on the scent of blood but instead learns to follow ground disturbance, decay, and hormonal scent changes left behind by a wounded animal.

Renowned tracking expert Sondra Rolison has developed a progressive training program that systematically builds a dog’s tracking ability, ensuring it learns to track accurately before increasing difficulty. Whether starting with a puppy or introducing an older dog to tracking, the training follows a structured approach:

  • First 50 tracks: Establish a strong foundation, ensuring the dog learns to check every footstep and track thoroughly.
  • 50-track evaluation: Assess the dog’s progress and adjust training based on its individual needs.
  • 100-track benchmark and beyond: Gradually introduce real-world challenges while ensuring accuracy remains intact.

The First 50 Tracks: Teaching Accuracy and Thoroughness

The first 50 tracks are the foundation for a tracking dog’s future success. This phase teaches the puppy or dog to slow down, check each footstep carefully, and work methodically rather than rushing ahead.


Rather than introducing blood right away, Rolison recommends using the dog’s food as the primary reinforcement in the early stages. Blood can be incorporated occasionally as the dog progresses.

For the first 50 tracks, food—preferably the amount they will eat for that meal—should be placed in every single one of your footsteps as you lay a track to ensure the dog learns to check each one thoroughly. Use easy terrain, like shorter grass in a soccer field or a clean path in the woods.

"The first time a puppy puts its nose to the ground, I want it to be a positive experience," Rolison explains. "I don’t need to overwhelm them with too many olfactories at once. I want them to associate tracking with something they can succeed at, step by step."

Progression Plan for Tracking

  1. On short, clean grass, start with a 10-step track, with food distributed relatively even in every step.
  2. Add 10 more steps per track (Track 2 = 20 steps, Track 3 = 30 steps, and so on).
  3. By Track 50, the dog should be tracking approximately 500 steps.
  4. Food should be divided relatively evenly in the track, reinforcing that the reward is in the process of tracking itself, not just at the end.

Tip: Dig your heel slightly into the ground for a clearer track on each step, before placing the food in the heel mark. Leave food in each step, left and right, as you walk.


A dark colored dog leads a women wearing camouflage pants through the green brush of a forest.
You should start your training with relatively easy tracks and make them more complicated as the dog progresses. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford)

The Importance of Thoroughness

A tracking dog should learn to check each step carefully, even in the absence of food. If a dog starts skipping over steps or rushing ahead, the handler should:

  • Run the track again until the dog learns to slow down and work more methodically.
  • If needed, point down with your hand to guide the dog toward the correct footstep and the food they missed.

In addition to spreading food evenly throughout the track, placing a small pile of food at the end reinforces the idea that finishing the track completely is also rewarding and marks a physical and mental “end” to the track for the dog.

Once the dog is tracking thoroughly, small amounts of blood can be introduced at points of interest, such as a simulated wound bed.

The 50-Track Evaluation: Assessing Readiness for the Next Phase

Reaching Track 50 is not an automatic signal to reduce food—this is a checkpoint to evaluate how well the dog is progressing. Some dogs will be ready for more of a challenge, while others may need continued reinforcement before moving forward.

"At about the 50-track mark, I evaluate where I'm at," Rolison says. "Can I start breaking up my food placement? Can I start creating places where there's no food? If my dog struggles, I’ll scale back and reinforce accuracy before pushing forward again."

Signs a Dog Is Ready for Reduced Food Reinforcement:

  • The dog tracks consistently and thoroughly without skipping any steps.
  • It stays focused and engaged on every step even when food is not present.
  • The dog works confidently across different terrains.

If the dog is ready, food placement can be gradually reduced—rather than every step, it can be placed every other step, or every third or fourth step. However, if the dog begins to struggle, or rush ahead, scale back and reinforce thoroughness and accuracy before reducing food again.

At this stage, additional challenges should be introduced gradually and recorded. Note things like terrain changes, age of the tracks, and obstacles encountered and how the dogs handled these things. A training journal allows handlers to spot patterns, recognize strengths and weaknesses, and adjust training accordingly.

The 100-Track Benchmark: Preparing for Real-World Condition

By the time a dog reaches 100 tracks, it should be tracking 1,000 steps or more, navigating minor obstacles, and identifying turns. This phase is about increasing realism while maintaining accuracy. Begin adding new challenges such as:

  • Aging tracks 6–12 hours, then overnight.
  • More complex terrain—denser brush, creek crossings, slopes.
  • Big gaps between food rewards and blood.
  • More strategic use of blood and introduction to the scent of the interdigital gland
  • Leave deer hide or leg at end—something of realistic, high-value

Progression should be gradual, ensuring the dog continues to track accurately as difficulty increases. If a dog begins to struggle, reduce the difficulty before moving forward again.

A brown and white tracking dog lays down next to a white-tailed deer that it helped recover in the fall leaves.
Early in a dog's tracking career it is beneficial to choose tracks that have a high likelihood of success. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford)

Transitioning to Real-World Tracking: Selecting the Right Tracks

Reaching 100 tracks does not automatically mean a dog is ready for any live track. The first real-world tracks should be carefully selected to set the dog up for success.

A dog is ready for real tracking when it can: successfully track overnight trails, work through challenging terrain and conditions, and stay focused even when blood and food is sparce.

Not all tracks are good opportunities. A beginner dog should start with:

  • A solid visible blood trail at the start.
  • an arrow or bolt with clear, bright-red blood.
  • Minimal human contamination—too many people searching can confuse the scent trail.

Confidence is key. Avoid taking tracks you feel will be a stretch for your dog, but also never miss an opportunity for easy tracks, especially those where you or friends know the deer is down. These are huge for a puppy or young tracking dog’s confidence.

Essential Equipment for Blood Tracking and How-to Use it Properly

While training and technique are the foundation of a good tracking dog, the right equipment plays a crucial role in ensuring effective and controlled tracking. From leash handling to selecting the proper collar or harness, every detail affects how the dog learns and performs in the field.

dog-trackingA dark brown tracking dog leads a woman wearing a blue shirt through a dirt field as it follows a track.
If you run the leash underneath the dog it will help keep its nose to the track. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford)

Tracking Leash: Length and Handling

A leash is more than just a way to control your dog—it’s a direct line of communication between handler and the tracking dog. The best length to start is 8 to 15 feet, but longer leashes can be used as the dog progresses.

When positioning the leash, it should be underneath the dog rather than coming off its back. This positioning naturally encourages the dog to keep its head down and nose to the track.

When handling the dog, Keep the leash loose but controlled. Avoid excessive tension, as pulling back on the leash too much can disrupt the dog’s tracking rhythm. If the dog veers off track, use a gentle guiding pressure to bring it back, rather than jerking the leash.

Collars vs. Harnesses: Finding the Right Fit

Choosing between a collar or a tracking harness depends on the individual dog and the handler’s preference.

Flat Collar

A wide, flat collar is ideal for most dogs, especially in early training. It provides control without encouraging pulling, and it works well with leash positioning under the dog.

Harness

Some handlers prefer a tracking harness, which distributes pressure across the dog’s chest. If you use a harness, the leash should be attached to the front clip rather than the back to prevent excessive pulling. A harness is not recommended for dogs that tend to race ahead rather than methodically track.

Tracking Shoes for Advanced Work

As training progresses past 100 tracks, using tracking shoes can add realism by simulating the interdigital gland scent left by a wounded deer. These are specialized boots that allow handlers to attach a deer hoof or other game part to their feet while walking the track.

Where to Get Them: Available through organizations like United Blood Trackers, these shoes help condition dogs to recognize the scent of a wounded animal in addition to ground disturbance.

How to Use Them: Start incorporating them after the 100-track mark, when the dog is already confident in its tracking ability. Tracks laid with tracking shoes should be aged longer (4+ hours) to build difficulty.

Blood for Advanced Training

While early training relies on food, training a tracking dog should include realistic blood trails as well, preparing the dog for real-world scenarios.

  • Best Source: Beef blood from a local butcher is an easy and effective option. Or better yet, save some from your deer harvest. Make sure to research how to process blood correctly.
  • Storage: Blood should be stored properly—frozen in small portions and thawed as needed for training sessions.
  • Application: Drip blood sparingly. The goal is not to rely on blood alone, but association is also important.

Footwear and Clothing for the Handler

A tracking session may last hours, often through difficult terrain. A handler needs proper gear just as much as the dog does.

  • Durable, waterproof boots are essential for handling wet grass, mud, and thick brush.
  • Long pants and sleeves help prevent scratches from undergrowth.
  • A tracking vest or small pack to carry an extra leash, flagging tape, water, and training journal.

Tracking Flags or Markers

Especially early in tracking training, using small flags or biodegradable orange tape can help mark the path of the track so the handler knows if the dog is staying on course. Avoid places where the dog can see them, as they will get wise to their use. As the dog progresses down the track, remove the markers.

Training Journal

Keeping a detailed journal of each track is one of the most overlooked yet valuable tools in tracking training.

"I have all my handlers create a journal," says Rolison. "Every track should have notes—what terrain you worked on, how old the track was, where you placed food. That way, when you run into problems, you can go back and see what worked and what didn’t."

A good journal should track:

  • Track length
  • Type of terrain and environmental conditions
  • Any food or blood placement
  • Dog’s accuracy, struggles, or breakthroughs
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