Pull up the #giveapluck hashtag on Instagram, and your screen will fill with glorious photos of game birds meticulously and painstakingly plucked, posted by hunters who pride themselves in using as much of their game as possible.
The argument for plucking ducks is that it preserves a their skin and fat, which is where its true flavor resides. A plucked duck also gives you more options in the kitchen—including the opportunity to render fat —and provides better presentation at the table.
Last but not least, there’s a sense that the effort a hunter puts into caring for game meat after the hunt is another opportunity to honor the animal. The vision of a carefully plucked duck or goose that’s been meticulously roasted or smoked as centerpiece is a testament of this ethos.
Leaving the plucked skin on smoked waterfowl allows the smoke to adhere better because of the additional fat. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) The Reasons to Pluck Ducks In my kitchen, duck fat is a tasty and prized ingredient. Once you’ve had a taste of a mallard or teal breast, fatty skin intact and seared to perfection, you won’t want to go back to eating skinless birds again. On a whole duck, the fat also helps to insulate the meat, keeping it moist even when you’ve accidentally cooked it past what you should. Although it seems insignificant, fat does make a big difference in your perception of the flavor, moisture, and texture of meat.
Plucking ducks also opens up more possibilities in the kitchen. Skin-on birds can be roasted, grilled, pan seared, smoked, used for confit, or even cured. While you can do all these things with skinned birds, the results would not be the same. Smoking, especially, requires fat for smoke to adhere.
Rather than plucking an entire Canada goose, pluck the breast and leg areas to be removed for cooking. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) To Pluck, or Not to Pluck a Duck Plucking a couple ducks or one big goose for the holidays can feel like a novelty, but having to pluck a giant pile of them will get old real fast. I don’t pluck every duck or goose that comes my way.
First, pluck waterfowl that have pleasant-tasting fat. Generally, if a species’ fat can be described as “fishy,” it’s not one to pluck. However, this determination largely depends on what birds have been eating and your personal preference. Located in Nebraska, I’m generally a big fan of plucking blue- and green-winged teal, mallards, wood ducks, and northern pintails. If I’m lucky enough to get my hands on a specklebelly goose, that’s a prize. There’s nothing better than a smoked specklebelly goose.
On the other hand, I don’t put the effort into plucking an entire Canada goose. Their feathers are some of the toughest to pull out of any game bird. Plus, the legs don’t cook at the same rate as the breasts. I’ve roasted a whole Canada goose once, and I won’tdo it again.
Instead, I pluck the breast and leg areas only and carve out these cuts so that I can cook them separately. I might confit or stew the legs, and I might sear the breasts or make prosciutto. The rest of the carcass can be skinned and used for stock.
I often utilize this method with ducks as well, depending on what plans I have for them in the kitchen. Although I want the delicious skin, I don’t necessarily want to serve a whole bird every time, so I can save myself from having to pluck the entire bird. Most of the time, I just want to eat a nicely seared breast or legs.
With less-desirable-tasting waterfowl, such as snow geese and some diver ducks, I skin and quarter them. I don’t bother putting in the effort to retain the fat, which I don’t prefer to eat.
Another consideration when deciding to pluck a duck is its condition. I don’t waste my time plucking extremely shot-up birds, no matter the species. Although a few shot wounds are OK, no one wants to stare at a bird that’s been bruised black and blue. Those birds are for the meat grinder, not your Thanksgiving table.
Dry plucking ducks is the simplest way to remove the feathers before cooking. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) How to Pluck a Duck Dry plucking is the simplest way to pluck a duck, although it may not be the prettiest because leftover down feathers are singed off using a torch. This method can leave a burnt smell on birds, which can bother some people.
When plucking ducks, use the thumb and index finger on your dominant hand to pluck feathers on the breast, sides, wings, and back areas in the opposite direction of how they lay, while using your other hand to hold down the skin to prevent tearing. The tail feathers should be plucked straight out with the grain. Interestingly, with Canada geese, feathers seem to release easier when pulling them in the same direction of how they lay.
Pluck off as many feathers as you can, because the fewer feathers there are to burn off, the less of that burnt smell you have to deal with. While holding the bird by the feet, neck, or wing, carefully singe off leftover down feathers with a torch outside and in a well-ventilated location. Pass the flame over the leftover feathers just long enough that they burn away. It often helps to lay the bird(s) on a cookie sheet so that you have a heat-proof work surface to work on; you can also use a cookie sheet to singe off feathers on separated breasts and legs.
Finally, cut off the neck, feet, and unwanted parts of the wings with kitchen shears and gut the bird. I rinse it under cold water afterward to scrub off the charred bits with my fingers. I’ve never found the charred smell intolerable.
Plucked ducks can be presented whole or sliced thin with other sides. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) Presenting Plucked Ducks So, look inside your bag this season. If you’ve got a bird or two that would be worth plucking, I hope you do. A bird’s essence—the story of where it’s traveled and eaten—can be found in its fat.
And what gets people’s heads turning faster than the sight of a perfectly golden bird on the table? Beautiful, well-intentioned, and meticulously-made food often opens up conversations about where it came from and how it came to be—yet another opportunity to honor the hunt.
