Is there such a thing as weather that’s too cold for your retriever? I’d like to say no, not really, but as with most things, the answer has to include a disclaimer: “It depends.” While we can all agree that Labs, goldens, and Chessies are built to handle the roughest conditions on both land and water, there are a lot of variables that dictate how long a retriever can hunt effectively before the cold becomes indeed “too cold.”

Let me outline my thoughts and observations on this topic here, with the understanding that I’m mainly addressing late-season upland hunting. Think Dakota pheasants after Thanksgiving or Michigan ruffed grouse during the Christmas Season. Unless your hunting area gets crushed with so much snow that walking through it isn’t an option, the late season can produce some exciting and rewarding outings.

When an Arctic blast delivers sub-zero temps that make hunting literally painful for you, chances are your dog still wants to hunt, so get out there, but be smart about it.

Handling Cold Conditions in the Field

It’s almost never too cold for your retriever to hunt, as long as the dog is moving. I don’t think I have to explain that if your dog is shivering or acting lethargic, you’d better pack up and get it to warmth immediately. That shouldn’t happen, however, if your retriever is in shape, well-fed, and properly hydrated. In that condition, your dog should have all the energy and heat it needs to stay in the game for hours. My concerns tend to lie with the irritants that come with cold weather, not the temperature itself.

First, it’s not too often that bone-chilling cold doesn’t come with snow. Crusted-over snow in particular is more liable to wreck your hunt than the temperature. It’s tough on a dog’s paws, and it can do a real number on their chest and belly.

Think ahead about how you’re going to combat this potential problem. Dog boots have saved many hunts. There are so many great options in dog boots, from heavy-duty nylon models, to thick, cushiony neoprene, to rubber. Experiment with them well ahead of hunting season. Your dog won’t like wearing them at first but will get used to them.

I’ve seen many inventive ways to make sure dog boots are comfortable and stay attached. Some people slip a baby sock over the dog’s foot, followed by the boot, and then a few wraps of athletic tape for extra insurance against the boot slipping off. Others use vet pre- wrap to prevent the boot material from rubbing on the foot and causing a hot spot. A dog-boot routine is good to have as a fix for sore pads, an encounter with a field of sand burrs, or to protect an injured paw, regardless of the weather. Make them a standard part of your travel gear.

Also, the same neoprene vest that helps keep duck dogs warm can be used in the uplands as a tummy protector. Use caution here; a hard-hunting retriever generates a lot of heat, so wrapping it in neoprene in all but the most frigid conditions could lead to overheating. If you’re hunting in snow, but you're not too concerned about the temperature, you might be better off using a nylon chest protector.

Keeping your dog hydrated in cold conditions is a huge challenge because it won’t crave water like it does on warm days. But you have to encourage drinking as much as possible. I’ve always recommended adding Purina Fortiflora to your dog’s water bottle, if for no other reason than dogs love the taste, so it’s easier to get them to drink, even when they’re not desperate for hydration.

How Proper Feeding Keeps a Dog Warm

It’s one thing to put in a good, challenging day of hunting in tough conditions, knowing you can head back to your warm home and take all the time you and your dog need to recover. It’s another thing entirely to string three, four, five, or even more days together on a road trip.

You need to keep your dog’s energy supply topped off. That starts with food. First, don’t change the feeding routine. I feed once a day in the evenings, year-round. During a tough hunting trip, I do feed a bit extra, but I don’t overdo it. Yes, your dog might drop a few pounds on a multi-day trip, but it won’t do any good to, say, double its food intake. The result will probably be a bad case of diarrhea the next day.

Likewise, I don’t change the type of food just because it’s hunting season or because the weather changes. My dogs work hard year-round, therefore, I feed them a performance food that consists of 30 percent protein and 20 percent fat. The “30/20 rule” is a good one to adhere to because those are the two biggest needs to keep your dog going. For a dog, protein and fat are energy. Period.

To help your dog stay hydrated, cover its food with water before feeding. Anything you can do to get some extra water into it before the next day’s hunt is worth the effort. And, as I already mentioned, use the Fortiflora to encourage eating and drinking when an exhausted dog might otherwise be inclined to skip dinnertime.

Rest is important too. It’s tough to leave your dog in the truck when you’re on a multi-day hunt, but working your retriever for half days will often get you a more motivated and productive flushing dog tomorrow and the next day. If you’re with a group and have multiple dogs, be smart and rotate them in and out of the lineup. If you’re on a long hunt, you might even consider giving your dog a full day of rest, so it has time to re-energize.

After the Hunt

Speaking of rest, that well-deserved 12- or 15-hour break is vital to your dog’s health. It only pays off, however, if your dog can rest comfortably. If your retriever has to burn valuable calories by shivering, you’re being really unfair to your hunting buddy. Get back to your hotel or lodge, get your dog fed and watered, and then get it inside for a good night’s sleep.

Sometimes circumstances dictate that your dog needs to sleep in the truck. That’s not my preference, but sometimes it’s necessary. If it’s going to be below freezing, my preference is for my dog to be in a crate inside of a pickup with a topper, and that the crate is wrapped in an insulated kennel cover. Then, I find an outlet somewhere to accommodate the collection of extension cords I always travel with, and set up an electric heater to warm the back of the truck.

You can further build in some comfort by placing an old blanket or moving pads underneath the crate. Anything to get the crate off the cold, metal pickup bed is helpful.

So, “too cold” to hunt? Nah, that’s just about never a thing, in my opinion. Use good planning and common sense to head off the various challenges that come with late-season hunting, and you’ll realize that the temperature is really a non-factor when it comes to making the best of season’s end.