“At last, the dishes were set on, and grace was said. It was succeeded by a breathless pause, as Mrs. Cratchit, looking slowly all along the carving-knife, prepared to plunge it in the breast; but when she did, and when the long expected gush of stuffing issued forth, one murmur of delight arose all-round the board, and even Tiny Tim, excited by the two young Cratchits, beat on the table with the handle of his knife, andfeebly cried Hurrah! …
“There never was such a goose … Its tenderness and flavour, size and cheapness, were the themes of universal admiration.”
— Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol
History of a Smoked Goose for the Holidays Before prime rib, roast beef, and turkey, the Holiday smoked goose was the centerpiece of many European holiday tables. The tradition can be traced to the feast of St. Michael and All Angels, or “Michaelmas,” an ancient Christian festival celebrated on September 29. In Medieval, rural England, the holiday marked the end of the farming year, when people believed that eating a well-fattened goose on Michaelmaswould bring good tidings in the coming year.
The butchering of geese also coincided with the holiday season. Once a common farmyard bird, geese were set loose in the stubble to forage on left grain after harvest, which made them extra fat and delectable in time for the holiday table, according to the D’Artagnan Blog. Turkey, which the Spanish brought back from the Americas in the 1500s, was, for a while, considered exotic and out-of-reach for most families.
But as agrarian societies became increasingly urban, the farmyard goose began to disappear. Euro-American families across the pond quickly dispensed of the Old-World tradition, and by the early 20th century, turkey overtook English and Irish Christmas tables. Commercial rearing practices and modern palates eventually gave way to the American bird, a less gamy meat that is easier to raise, and thus cheaper to buy. If you were to purchase a goose for Christmas today, expect to pay a wincing premium.
While the holiday smoked goose has disappeared out of American consciousness, it’s a luxury that waterfowl hunters can still afford. I, for one, would choose waterfowl over a store-bought turkey any day. A specklebelly, especially. This smoked goose will have you agreeing that: indeed, there never was such a goose!
Smoked goose is best served rare and sliced thin. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley) Holiday Smoked Goose with Sage-Leek Stuffing
Serves: 4 Prep time: 1 Day Cook time: 2 Hours
1 whole specklebelly goose (greater white-fronted goose), plucked 4 quarts water 1 cup kosher salt 1 cup brown sugar 2 oz maple syrup or honey Stuffing Ingredients:
8 oz day-old French bread 5 Tbsp salted butter, separated 2 small leeks, white parts chopped 1 cup celery, diced 2 to 3 sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves chopped 2 Tbsp fresh sage, minced 1½ cups of water, plus extra 1 ½ tsp of Better Than Bouillon Roasted Chicken Base Salt and pepper, to taste Directions:
The day before you plan to smoke the goose, make the brine: Combine 4 quarts of water, 1 cup kosher salt, and 1 cup brown sugar in a container large enough to fit the goose. Stir until dissolved, and then fully submerge the goose, using a heavy plate to weigh down the bird if needed. Refrigerate for 6 hours. Take the goose out of the brine, and pat dry with paper towels; discard the brine. Place goose on a rack-lined cookie sheet, or something similar that would allow airflow, and place in the refrigerator uncovered for the surface to dry overnight—do not skip this step. Prepare smoker to 225° Fahrenheit. Brush the goose all over with maple syrup or honey, and then place it onto the smoker with a tray or cookie sheet underneath to catch fat and juices. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest part of the breast, and smoke the goose until the internal temperature reaches 135° Fahrenheit for medium doneness; glaze the goose with maple syrup every 30-45 minutes. Take off heat and allow the goose to rest for 10 minutes before carving. While the goose is cooking, preheat oven to 375° Fahrenheit. Cut French bread into 1-inch cubes, and evenly coat with 4 tbsp. of melted butter in a rimmed cookie sheet. Bake until bread becomes toasty and crispy at the edges, about 15-20 minutes. In a saucepan, boil 1½ cups of water to dissolve the bouillon paste to make stock. In a 10-inch oven-proof skillet, melt the remaining butter over medium heat. Add chopped leeks, celery, a splash of water, and a pinch of salt. Stir to coat and then cook, covered, for 10 minutes on low heat to steam, stirring occasionally. Do not allow leeks to brown—add a splash of water if they do. Then add thyme and sage and sauté for 1 minute. Add the toasted bread. Pour the stock over the bread mixture, stir, and allow everything to soak for a few minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Before serving, place the skillet underneath the broiler for a few minutes to make the top crispy. I don’t ever recommend actually stuffing birds—the stuffing will absorb moisture, dry out the meat, and cause uneven cooking.
