Chris Akin, the founder of Webfooted Kennels , is a renowned figure in the world of retriever training, known for his practical approach to raising and training dogs that excel both in the field and as companions. Since 1989, Webfooted Kennels has trained thousands of Labradors, with an impressive record of over 4,000 trained dogs and more than 700 titled hunting retriever champions. Akin and his team have also achieved the rare feat of producing 87 grand hunting retriever champions—a significant accomplishment in the hunting retriever world.
In addition to training, Akin runs a successful breeding program, producing around 200 Labrador puppies each year. His breeding approach focuses on creating healthy Labradors with an “on and off switch”—dogs with the energy and drive for intense fieldwork, but also the calm temperament needed to be reliable family companions.
For over three decades, Akin has fine-tuned his training methods to ensure young retrievers grow into confident, reliable hunting dogs, training several puppies to “started dogs” each year. His approach is built on patience, consistency, and a deep understanding of a dog’s natural instincts.
This past fall, I sat down with Akin and his young field-bred golden retriever at one of his duck lodges in Arkansas. As migrating mallards circled the cypress in the thick fog, Akin offered me a clear insight into his process: one that is simple and has produced champions for over three decades. Here, we’ll explore an overview of his step-by-step approach to early retriever training, from puppy days to their first waterfowl hunting season.
Socializing puppies to lots of people and experiences is important for their development. (Photo courtesy of Mark Atwater) Early Puppy Socialization Akin emphasizes that the foundation for any well-trained dog begins with building a strong bond. For the first six months of a retriever’s life, Akin’s focus isn’t on rigorous training but on socialization and companionship. He advises new owners to take their puppies everywhere: to family gatherings, stores, hunting camp, and on vacation. This period isn’t about teaching obedience; it’s about helping the puppy acclimate to different environments, people, other dogs, and experiences with confidence.
“People often think they need to drill obedience from day one,” Akin says, “but a well-socialized, confident puppy is much easier to train later on.” Taking puppies on car rides, letting them explore new places, and exposing them to the sounds of both daily and hunting life lays the groundwork for their comfort and responsiveness in the field.
Akin, of course, encourages owners to engage their young dogs in light retrieving exercises to foster natural instincts without pressure. For instance, tossing a toy down a hallway and letting the puppy retrieve it without expecting a perfect return nurtures an enthusiasm for retrieving without the pressure of formal training. At this age, training should feel like play, building a positive association with their natural desire to retrieve.
One of the most common mistakes Akin sees in this early stage is owners pushing too much structure, thinking they need an obedient, fully trained dog within the first few months. Instead, Akin suggests focusing on consistency in daily life, creating routines around feeding, crate time, and play. This stage is about building confidence in the dog rather than control.
Proper nutrition is important for a puppy to grow properly. (Photo courtesy of Eukanuba Sporting Dog) Beginning Basic Obedience with a Puppy Formal obedience training begins when the dog is around six months old. At this point, Akin formalizes foundational commands like “heel,” “sit,” “stay,” and “come.” The key, Akin stresses, is patience and consistency; teaching a dog to obey commands reliably can take weeks or even months. He also integrates collar conditioning during this phase, allowing the dog to understand pressure in a clear, controlled manner.
Once the basics are established, Akin introduces force fetch. Using gentle pressure, he teaches the dog to take an object (usually a training bumper) in its mouth and release it when told. Though it requires patience, previous collar conditioning allows the dog to understand the pressure—and how to get out of it.
During this phase, Akin shares a tip for trainers facing issues with easily distracted, immature, or reluctant dogs: keep training sessions short and focused. “Training should be just long enough to keep their interest,” he says. Over time, the duration can increase as the dog’s focus strengthens. If a dog shows hesitation with force fetch, Akin recommends encouragement and frequent breaks, ensuring the experience remains positive.
Early socialization of a retriever should include an introduction to things they will encounter while hunting such as blinds, stands, boats, and decoys. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford) Intermediate Training with a Retriever Once a dog has mastered basic obedience, Akin transitions to field-specific training, where the emphasis shifts to controlled obedience, skills, and exposure to more challenging hunting scenarios. This phase involves teaching the dog to work with decoys, manage distractions, and understand retrieving in different hunting setups and duck blinds.
One of the primary things Akin emphasizes during this phase is advancing retrieving skills. He begins with already learned simple “marking” drills where the dog watches a bumper or bird land but is now asked to retrieve it in different environments. These simple marks, which can take place in open fields or in water, help build the dog’s memory and precision in a variety of hunting setups. Over time, Akin then introduces multiple retrieves (double marks), gradually increasing the complexity to then move on to triple retrieves.
Akin then advances to patterned blinds with his dogs, where the dog will retrieve an unseen dummy or bird in the same location over the course of several days, which builds confidence to then go to cold blinds, which are unseen retrieves done in unfamiliar or “non-patterned” locations. Akin simultaneously establishes a clear understanding of hand signals in a more controlled, simple manner, later combining and advancing the two different concepts so that he can handle a dog to any direction on a blind retrieve.
Gunfire introduction is another critical step at this point. Akin suggests beginning with distant gunfire, ensuring the dog isn’t startled or anxious. Over time, the gunfire is moved closer, conditioning the dog to remain focused and calm in the presence of shooting. Exposure to decoys and hunting blinds is also incorporated, so the dog feels comfortable and understands its surroundings during a real hunt.
PRO TIP: When a dog hesitates or shows signs of anxiety during field training, Akin advises returning to a simpler exercise and rebuilding the dog’s confidence. “You can’t rush a dog past their comfort level,” he explains. “If they’re nervous, ease them back, give them time, and celebrate the small wins.” This patience will pay dividends down the road in real hunting situations.
Helping a dog have a good first hunt sets it up for success later in its hunting career. (Photo courtesy of Nathan Ratchford) Preparing a Bird Dog for its First Hunt Akin emphasizes that a dog’s first hunting experience can shape its attitude toward hunting for life. For this reason, he advises trainers to replicate hunting scenarios as closely as possible in training. This might involve working in different lighting conditions, such as early morning or evening, letting the dog be a part of setting up decoys, extended training sessions, etc. Akin also suggests enlisting a few friends to simulate the environment of a hunting blind, complete with other guns, decoys, and calls.
To make the dog’s first hunt a positive experience, Akin advises leaving one’s gun behind and focusing solely on the dog. “When you’re training, you don’t want to be distracted,” he explains. “The dog is learning, and you need to be there for it.” By taking the time to carefully monitor the dog’s reactions and performance, handlers can provide immediate and proper corrections and praise, helping the dog understand what’s expected on a hunt.
Akin also recommends “mulligan hunts” for a dog’s early experiences. These low-stakes hunts involve fewer hunters and a relaxed pace, allowing the dog to gradually get accustomed to the sounds, sights, and pressures of hunting. Additionally, Akin advises placing the dog in an optimal spot within the blind or pit, ensuring the dog has a clear view of downed birds and isn’t overwhelmed by other activity.
PRO TIP: Akin also has a simple rule for young dogs in the hunting environment: never underestimate the power of breaks. He says, “If the dog looks bored, restless, or tired, take a break. Walk them, let them stretch, and get their excitement back up.” This approach prevents burnout and helps the dog stay eager and responsive, which is essential for young hunting dogs.
Hunting dogs, he notes, thrive on enthusiasm and positive learning experiences. By ending early hunts on a high note, trainers reinforce a good association with hunting that will serve them well for years to come. “You want that dog to see hunting as a game they can’t wait to play,” he says. “That’s the best way to ensure they’ll keep a passion for hunting throughout life.”
