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5 Hacks for Helping your Dog Complete a Retrieve

Tips that ensure your dog completes retrieves to hand come fall.

5 Hacks for Helping your Dog Complete a Retrieve
A completed retrieve is the capstone of a good find in the field. (Photo courtesy of Kali Parmley)

Huffing and puffing over a lava ridge, you arrive, sweating, at your dog on point. Another step, and chukars are up! A spinning shot drops the hard-earned bird 50 yards down the slope you just clambered up. “Fetch,” you whisper, and your dog looks at you like you’re speaking Spanish.

A half hour later, after poking among the rocks and puckerbrush, you’re back where you started, without that bird you shot. You’re livid, your dog’s oblivious, and your hunting buddy is hiding a smirk. Sound familiar?

Need I say it? Um, yeah. A reliable retrieve comes from following a tested, proven method, going from table or place board to the yard, to the field over months, under controlled conditions. But here you both are on opening day, all that theory dribbling away in this real-world situation.

Now what? I’ve acquired a repertoire of last-minute desperation moves—hacks—that’ll help. Some may fast-track your training program. Others will get the bird back and avoid the worst of the ribbing from your fellow hunters. Feel free to steal any of them.




A wirehair retrieves a pheasant in a field of yellow grass.
A dependable recall ensures that your dog makes the retrieve back to you. (Photo courtesy of Scott Linden)

1. Encourage the Recall

“Any well-bred bird dog will run out and pick up a dead bird,” said a pro-trainer friend. “It’s the coming back that’s problematic.” He was right, so starting with a flawless recall makes sense. A pup should anticipate nothing but love and positivity when he comes to you; there’s no reason to scold, strike, or e-stim your dog if he’s enroute or at your side.

Pup should believe that going to you is always the right thing to do, towing a battleship to get there if necessary. “Good things” include a scratch, verbal praise, food treat, or best, a chance to find more birds.

2. Help Them Make the Retrieve

Pair up, go out with him on some retrieves—on a lead at first, running alongside, returning to your starting point. Reward. Then, send him on a check cord while you hang back, giving him a tug and calling “here” if needed.


A bird in the mouth is a powerful temptation for a cuddly little predator-in-training. He’s unlikely to give it up without a tempting tradeoff. Some trainers toss food treats out and send their pup, which comes back for … another food treat! For others, praise is enough, even with a mouthful of feathers. In many cases, reinforcing the return part is needed—calling “come,” or blowing your whistle when he’s got the bird in his mouth.

3. Create Some Competition with Other Dogs

Try envy. No self-respecting bird dog wants his compatriot getting the glory (or the taste of feathers). Stake out your pup and let him watch another dog enjoying retrieves. Swap dogs and see what happens.

Don’t get greedy. A few reps of a well-executed retrieve (or part of a retrieve) are plenty. Showing off for friends only helps a pup get bored; soon he’s phoning it in.

Now’s a good time to review a dog’s motives: birds, birds, and more birds. Questing for them, carrying them, mmmmm … delectable scent, feel, and taste of feathers on a slobbery tongue. The only reward that outweighs a bird in his mouth is the anticipation of another one out there somewhere, so cut him loose to hunt again.

4. Don’t “Steal” the Bird, Let Them Enjoy it a Minute

A bird well-savored is more readily relinquished. He did all the hard work … found the bird, pointed it, picked it up, brought it back and the moment he gets there, you confiscate his well-earned reward. Rather, hold his collar or snap on a short lead, and give him a minute to enjoy his paycheck. Eventually, he’ll give it up. (You are teaching a release command, aren’t you?)

A wirehair stands on a tailgate with a choker in it's mouth.
Letting a dog enjoy the bird for a minute may help it feel more inclined to give it to you. (Photo courtesy of Scott Linden)

Sometimes, we humans should be wearing the training collar. Often, we subtly signal him to drop a bird: reaching for it, bending over, grabbing the collar, premature or effusive praise (especially physical) all take focus away from the fetch (and hold) command. Put your hands in your pockets, turn away from him, do whatever assures him you’re not stealing his treasure. Chill, man. And if he drops before you ask for it, walk away—he’ll likely pick it up and follow.

5. Getting the Bird After the Retrieve

Ensure training birds are rag-dead. First thing your pup will do if a bird fights back is eliminate the problem with a few “zealous death chomps,” as a fan once described it. (By the way, “Zealous Death Chomps” is a great name for a metal band.) A flapping, scratching pigeon transforms your pup into a predator less willing to part with his prize. After all, he did the dirty work for you.

If this is the case and he doesn’t want to let go, get him by the collar, and blow in his nose or ear—his mouth may open. You can also trade him a food treat or wait patiently—eventually it’ll drop.

A wirehair smells a stack of retrieving dummies on a table.
Having the foundation of a trained retrieve will make retrieving in the field much more consistent. (Photo courtesy of Scott Linden)

There’s No Substitute for Practicing Retrieves

Remember, these are desperation moves, when nothing else works. They aren’t a substitute for a sound teaching method, discipline on both your parts, or repetition. Practice in new locations and with distractions to cement the basics in place. But if you finally drop a hard-crossing Hun in tall cover in front of your brother-in-law, one or more of these hacks just might shut him up.

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