SPANIELS
This tip is from Casey Sajdak of Mountain Evens Kennels, 519 Spaulding Hill Rd., East Dummerston, VT 05346, (802) 254-6643, email springer@sover.net. After training and field trialing English springers for many years as an amateur, Casey won the National Open Championship in 2000 and turned pro. He trains spaniels for field trials and hunting. He also judges field trials and breeds field-bred English springer spaniels.

THE MOST IMPORTANT CONTROL COMMAND

For Spaniels: Hup!
If you can turn your spaniel, call him to you and stop him, you have a well-trained hunter," Casey said. "But the command that separates the 'country-broke' dog from the polished performer is Hup. If your spaniel will stop immediately on Hup under all circumstances, well, he's, as they say, 'somethin'else!'"

First off, if you can Hup your dog immediately after the flush, you'll get safe, clear shots at almost every bird. Or, when your dog's trailing a runner, if you can Hup him whenever he gets too far ahead, he won't flush birds out of gun range.

"I don't see as many birds as I did years ago, so I hate to waste shooting opportunities," he said. "Bagging a bird after repeatedly Hup-ing my spaniel as he trailed it always puts a big grin on my face."

Casey added that a reliable response to Hup offers advantages even when you're not hunting. For example, if your spaniel is about to run out into a street with heavy traffic, it can save his life.

Casey begins teaching the Hup command on lead when the pup is three or four months old. Initially he helps the pup into a sitting position as he gives the command, then pets and praises him before releasing him with his call-name. As the pup begins to grasp the concept, Casey works at greater distances but still on a long lead or rope. He introduces various distractions to convince the pup that Hup is the most important word in his vocabulary.

Casey Sajdak

However, Casey restricts Hup training to the yard until after the dog's field work has progressed satisfactorily, that is, until the youngster is finding, flushing and retrieving birds enthusiastically, and is being shot over. Casey believes in developing plenty of hunting desire before exercising much control in the field.

When the time comes to extend Hup to the field, he uses a long lead or rope for control. First, he teaches the youngster to Hup after flushing planted pigeons. Initially, after the flush, he doesn't command Hup until just before the dog reaches the end of the lead. That way, the lead reinforces the command automatically.

Casey gradually shortens the distance the pup runs after the flush and before the Hup command, using the lead to reinforce it as necessary. However, he always delays the command until after the bird is well up and away, lest he adversely affect the pup's flush. While the pup is still on the long lead, Casey introduces wing-clipped pigeons, thrown dead pigeons and gunfire after the Hup.

"You sometimes gain and sometimes lose ground here," he said. "The trainer often needs an experienced eye to avoid serious setbacks that might ruin a young spaniel."

Casey teaches the stop-to-flush by having an assistant throw dead or wing-clipped pigeons nearby while the dog is running and hunting, but still dragging the rope. As each bird goes up, Casey commands Hup and uses the rope as necessary.

Next, Casey has an assistant roll birds in near him for the youngster to flush. When the bird is up and away, Casey commands Hup, and since he's so close and the dog's dragging a rope, he can reinforce the command. When the youngster Hups reliably on these nearby flushes, Casey begins to let him quarter and hunt at more normal ranges, but still dragging a rope.

"It takes one to three months," he said, "with several birds per week, to complete this training with pigeons. Then you have to repeat the same steps with game birds."

Casey uses the e-collar to reinforce Hup only if an older well-trained dog starts breaking unexpectedly. But before using the e-collar, he first collar-conditions the dog.

Until the dog is two or three years old and well-trained in the above steps, Casey doesn't use Hup while the dog's trailing a runner. Even then, he trains on this very little lest he create a "popping" problem (anticipating the command and stopping without it).

"In general, you should help your dog associate Hup and release-by-name with enjoyable experiences," Casey recommended. "Control should be based on rapport, shared good experiences and personal leadership on your part."