As you begin teaching the kennel command, you actually push pup in as you "overlay" the cue/sound "kennel."

In our last article we shared some ideas on puppy training centered around early socialization and getting a new puppy started correctly on the path to becoming a successful hunting or contest dog.

Let's continue, but with some emphasis on early training or yard work to be sure of a solid base as we move our "wonder dog" along.

Training
It is important to remember that in the beginning our pup has no idea of what's going on. With a mishmash of new sounds and pushing and pulling--none of which makes any sense--"training" can be downright confusing to a canine mind that's only a few weeks old.

Our first objective is to help the dog understand the parameters of this desired response in a positive way, being sure to avoid confusion as we define what is expected. Realize also, we're hoping to nurture a learning kind of mentality, setting the mode for future development.

During this learning phase of training, whenever possible most good trainers use an "avoidance" technique or approach to training, then once commands are learned, correction or punishment can be used to discourage disobedience.

Avoidance technique involves light pressure concurrent with the cue, which is released as the dog responds correctly.

A big benefit with avoidance training is that pressure or discomfort to the dog is more of a subtle irritation than clear pain. During learning, subtle pressure is less likely to overwhelm and "wash" any comprehension or inhibit progress because of fear of correction rather than focus on learning.

When using avoidance your dog will soon learn to escape the discomfort by a correct response, which is supported by praise and reinforcement from the trainer. And as training progresses your dog gains confidence along with an understanding that it is possible to totally avoid any discomfort by a quick response to commands.

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So although it's not always possible, when we can we will use avoidance methods, and when not, a gentle blend of correction and praise to establish parameters and encourage the desired response. Only after we are certain commands are understood will we begin to elevate levels of distraction and reinforcement to ensure obedience in all situations.

Fundamental Commands
I have often said, "If he won't obey you on a four-foot lead, he'll surely not obey at 100 yards." So if your problem has been some macho misconception that this is sissy stuff, forget it. No matter what your goal--a companion housedog, a hunting partner or (if you're going for the gold ring and plan to field trial) a titled performance dog--it all starts the same.

No, Kennel, Heel, Sit, Come, Whoa
"No!" isn't a command we set up with specific drills to teach or enforce, like "Kennel"; it's learned early as a part of every day socialization and later reinforced in proportion to understanding to gain obedience.

"No" is a real command with only one meaning but endless uses; it simply means, "Stop it."

Teach No by consistently overlaying the word as a command when you stop pup from chewing your shoelace, from chasing the cat or from any other act you want him to quit and you'll be surprised how soon he understands and turns to you for direction and approval.

Don't forget praise for the correct response, but also realize this proof of understanding obligates you to stronger reinforcement when your pup chooses to disobey.

"No" and all the other commands become tools used throughout the dog's life. Proper use of each tool gains strength and effect as an accentual part in the building and handling of a working dog.

The reward is worth the effort. A time will come when you're able to stop the dog even before an action simply because the command "No" is in place and you've learned to read your dog's body language and expression to anticipate each move he makes.