Playing on the pup's natural prey drive, we introduce the gun sound as a cue to fun exciting stuff, rewarded by the retrieve. Tom is set with a blank pistol, catching the pup's attention by tossing the Dead Fowl dummy, while Tim holds our student ready for the chase and retrieve.

Even though we all try very hard to avert problems through early conditioning, three gunners working a covey of quail or a pair of roosters puts a whole new spin on the overwhelming power and noise of gunfire. While training, there's one bird up in plain sight, one gunner and one shot…a very controlled situation, in other words. Most importantly, during training sessions the dog sees the bird. But that's not always the case when we're out hunting.

Possible scenario...On her first pheasant hunt, a young Lab we'll call Betty was working heavy briars, unaware of two roosters flushing 20 yards out. Subsequent gun blasts from the two hunters caught her off guard at the same time she was hurt pulling herself free from the briars. Now we have a problem--Betty associates the loud, harsh gun blasts with the pain caused from freeing herself from ripping thorns.

Put yourself in the dog's place, not privileged to logic, but only aware of a sudden commotion, pressure, and intense noise, again and again. Anyone who's experienced even the slightest muzzle blast knows what I mean and can understand how problems could develop, even though the dog was properly introduced to gunfire during early training.

Granted, some individuals are predisposed to problems simply because they're not mentally strong. Still, if we do everything right, most dogs understand the gun, and I feel we have to admit, gunshyness or gun sensitivity is manmade. It usually results from poor socialization, improper introduction to gun noise, or shortcuts during the training process.

The good news is, if we have a little boggle during the first season, it can usually be corrected, especially if the dog was started right and only shows "sensitivity" (as opposed to outright fear or panic) to gunfire.

We generally use "sensitive" to describe some level of concern or fear the dog shows of something, yet in the absence of those particular stimuli the dog recovers relatively quickly and goes on with the job at hand. In contrast, "shy" is used to describe indications of a much stronger, overpowering and lasting fear.

My best results in either case, whether starting a pup or working through severe problems, involve engaging the dog's innate desire, prey drive, and mental strengths. No magic; we simply help Fido associate gun noise with "good stuff," and progress depends on the dog and the severity of the problem.

High-drive, mentally strong dogs usually have no problem and can be steadied early, but others who lack punch and confidence should be allowed to chase birds and enjoy themselves for a good while.

The Drill
I recommend you use a 22-caliber black powder blank or cap gun in the beginning; you'll also need a lead or check rope, a few game birds or pigeons and a friend who understands your objective and will help throw birds for your dog.

First reassure yourself that the dog is comfortable with birds and handles them correctly, as we don't want to create or reinforce an associated problem.

I like to use a clipped-wing live pigeon and start by letting the dog hold and carry it around a little bit. Doing this gives me an idea of the dog's manner and confidence.

Next, tease the dog by flipping his nose and face with the wings; if the dog seems to back off, toss the bird out a foot or so and encourage the dog to chase. We're trying to excite prey drive, divert attention and build confidence--all at the same time.

Now hold your dog and toss the bird a few feet so it flutters and lands in open cover, then again encourage the dog to chase, catch and retrieve. Use plenty of praise and don't grab the bird when he returns, but allow him some time to enjoy.

Next, throw the pigeon farther; you might ask a friend to help and extend the retrieves to 15 or 20 yards during this first session, depending on the dog's response. Don't get in a hurry, and be sure to quit while the dog is still in high drive and excited about the chase.