A typical set-up used to awaken and nurture pointing instinct in young dogs. With trap positioned out of sight in cover, we swing the pup through the area, perpendicular to the wind/scent drift. Our objective is for the pup to suddenly get smacked with a nose full of bird scent, triggering pointing instinct.

I'm sure most of you have at least seen some version of bird release traps in use, and no doubt many of you are using them, but for those who haven't quite made up their mind to add one or more to their "must have" training stuff arsenal I'll share some ideas on how they fit different phases of training.

Admittedly release traps aren't something I use every day, but I do own several and for certain aspects of training, like stopping to flush or nurturing pointing instinct in young pointing breeds, I feel they're pretty much the hot deal and earn their keep many times over.

A release trap is nothing more than a spring loaded bird cage. When triggered the mechanism springs upward, catapulting the bird clear of dog and cover, simulating a wild flush.

Most manufacturers use a pretty similar cage design; the differences come in the release mechanism, and that's where you find cost coming into play as well. These range from the basic models where you actually step on a release on the side of the trap, to those triggered by pulling a long cord and on to those that are truly remote, triggered electronically from any distance.

Although foot or string releases work in certain situations, for the full benefit of precise timing and a much broader range of uses, I recommend you bite the cost bullet and go for the full remote, electronic release.

Bottom line, "traps" are useful over a wide range of training scenarios, be it flushing, pointing, or retrieving work. They come in sizes for quail to ducks; the birds will be launched clear of your dog and cover for a clean flush with no need of dizzying; the birds are alert and ready for a strong flight, and we have precise control of when they flush.

This might sound like remote traps are the final answer but they're like any other training device. You have to realize they're not a cure-all or short cut. Supportive training and introductions are key, and as with any tool, overuse can lead to problems.

With that, let's share some ways release traps might fit your training program.

Using a remote releaser is a great way to train and reinforce stop-to-flush on wild flushes. Set up a release trap in reasonable cover and swing your dog close but upwind of the trap. As the dog comes through the area, you can simulate a wild flush by popping the bird and at the same time be ready to reinforce the stop and steadiness.

Marked Retrieves
When working to improve a retriever's marking ability and/or steadiness, I sometimes place traps around a pond or out in a flat field area. The trap takes the place of a helper and throws the birds at my signal. By throwing wing-clipped pigeons from a release designed for pheasants, I get pretty good height and the dog can easily marks the bird's fall.

With the traps set up, heel and sit your dog on line in clear view of the area of the trap and cue him with "Mark!" Be sure the dog is watching, then pop the wing-clipped bird.

At the same time you can fire a blank if you're working on steadying, then pause and send your dog for the retrieve.

On delivery remember to sit the dog in line with the next trap, then accept the bird. Now as before, show your dog the line to the next trap with an extended hand and caution him to "Mark." As he looks downline, pop the bird and send him with "fetch."

Strong Flush
A flushing dog's job is to locate and force birds from cover into flight. One problem during training is that planted birds are often slow to ­flush and can be caught by the dog.

With release traps set up in heavy cover, we can watch our dog as it makes game and drives in for the flush, a case where timing is critical. With a release trap we're able to quickly catapult the bird, simulating a successful flush.