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Starting A New Puppy, Part 4
Remember when teaching any command, we first attempt to guide the dog through the maneuver, to assume the desired position or behavior, and only when the dog begins to understand do we overlay our sound cue. My point is, we do not want to associate this cue with misunderstanding, confusion or disobedience, so we only bring it in once we achieve the basic response/behavior. So hold off on your command word for a while.
Next, you should decide on your release command. Every command must have a clear release or cue to end it. Some use “Okay”; others release with the dog’s name. In any case, a signal is needed to release your dog to maintain clear parameters and understanding.
When you’re ready to use the choke collar, for a dog heeling on the left face the dog holding the choke collar so it forms a “P” and place it over his head and attach your lead to the ring hanging on the dog’s right. If your dog is to heel on your right, flip the “P” so the ring hangs to the dog’s left. This way the collar will slide free to release pressure the instant you slacken the lead.
You may also use a training table or some sort of elevated platform to bring your dog up on a surface knee-high to you during the initial teaching phase. This can be a great aid, as most dogs, upon losing their secure footing on the ground, are far more attentive to your guidance. Plus, it’s easier for you to move and hold the dog in position as you begin.
I suggest using a table at first. Walk the dog around a bit, then up onto the table to a stop in front of you. Next, simply lift on the collar with one hand while pushing down on his rump with the other. Hold the dog in that position a few seconds, and you might stroke down his back a little or pat his chest. Either offers some assurance while the pressure tends to hold him in position.
There are a couple ways to achieve the initial response we're looking for when beginning to teach SIT. With most dogs, simply holding up on the leash while stepping close and not allowing them back up will get the job done...lift up on the lead, step closer and stand quietly. A second method, and probably more conventional, is to lift up on the collar while pushing down on the rump... remember, no voice cue at this time. Once your dog begins respond you can usually lift on the lead and tap the rump or step close as suggested earlier.
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You might have a battle early on, but keep him in a sitting position a few seconds or at least until he relaxes. Your signal is in the feel of his muscles or even a subtle sigh as the dog yields to your pressure. At that instant, you relax and give the dog a light brush with your hand, then hold him for a second or two longer, give the release command, and move off.
Again, don’t give any other command words yet, and no big “Good Job!” or “Attaboy,” either. At this point it would only wash out what little understanding your dog has gained. The first couple sessions are subtle gains.
If the dog moves before your release, push him back down and again hold him until he relaxes and sits for some time. In each session, you’ll expect the dog to sit and hold his position slightly longer.
Once your dog yields to pressure and begins to assume the sitting position on his own, you can begin to overlay the sound cue. Say, “Sit…Sit” softly and slowly. Our hope is that the dog will now associate this sound with our desired response. Continue lifting the collar and pushing down his rump as you repeatedly overlay the SIT sound.
As you progress, move off the table and work through the drill in several locations around the yard, garage, and house, each time forcing the dog to hold his position until you decide to release him. Make him hold the position a little longer each time, then release him with “Okay.” And remember you decide when, not the dog.
Also notice that I do not recommend a second command to keep your dog in position. You hear some folks say “SIT” then “STAY” but there is no need to complicate things; in the end SIT will mean to assume and hold the sitting position until released, with no options.
Once your dog understands and responds to your voice cue, it is time to think about some sort of visual signal to associate with SIT. The most common signal is a flat open hand, palm forward toward the dog. The visual will eventually allow for a silent signal or reinforcement during advanced work.
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