Continuing our series on basic training from the last few issues, we now come to teaching “SIT.”

Some of you are no doubt wondering why I’ve sequenced SIT toward the end our yard work program when it’s typically thought of as one of the more basic--and first-taught--of commands. Primarily it is balance; we have to maintain a sort of stability of understanding and comfort in the dog as training progresses, at the same time being aware of how certain aspects of training impact others.

During our discussion of teaching HEEL, we decided that too much literal enforcement early on could translate to confusion when you begin to work your dog on a check rope on birds and practice steadiness drills. Well, there can be similar concerns with SIT…most pointing breed trainers agree teaching SIT early will increases the likelihood a dog will sit as a form of displacement behavior or escape from pressure during steadiness drills, especially around birds.

In fact, a large percentage of bird dog trainers never do teach their pointing breeds to sit at all, but instead rely on WHOA as their stationary command. I agree that teaching SIT too early can confound steadiness, especially in softer students, but when brought in at the right time, with clear definition, SIT becomes one of your more useful commands. Also, if you are training one of the continental breeds--German shorthaired pointer, German wirehaired pointer, Brittany, etc.--as a versatile dog to be used as a “non-slip” retriever, or any of the retriever or flushing breeds, SIT is a must.

When using any dog as a non-slip retriever, SIT is the key to your dog remaining steady, concentrating on marking falls and subsequently making productive retrieves. For example, in the duck blind or on a dove stand, working dogs have to sit calmly so as not to interfere with the hunt or flare incoming birds, as well as maintaining focus and being attentive to mark down birds as part of a successful retrieve.

Teaching “Sit”

Springer and cocker folks typically use “Hup” rather than “Sit,” but any sound you wish to use as a cue will work. What’s important is being clear and consistent once you decide.

My favorite training aids to begin this work are a standard fur-saver type choke collar and a three- or four-foot lead. One of the Smiths’ “Wonder Leads” is another option that I use a good deal. It is also helpful to have a two-foot stick to tap the dog’s rump or chest as training progresses.

We’ll assume your dog is accustomed to and comfortable with both collar and lead, not necessarily trained to heel but does understand and yield to pressure.