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Quit Being Laissez: How to Discipline Your Dog

by Dave Carty   |  August 21st, 2012 8
Pointer-training_001

Heeling is underused, but an extremely helpful command, especially at the end of hunt.

Lately, it’s become fashionable in more obscure quarters to adopt a laissez-faire approach to dog training, as if any pointing dog, minus basic obedience and given enough time in the field hunting wild birds—no “artificial” penned quail or pigeons for these guys—will develop of his own volition into a functional, biddable bird dog.

Ain’t gonna happen. Nice try, though.

Hear me out. There’s nothing more important to a bird dog’s development than time spent in the field hunting wild birds. You simply can’t do it too much; dogs only improve when they’re given the opportunity to find, work and point hundreds of wild birds a year. All birds are good, from woodcock to meadowlarks, grouse to pheasants. I don’t care whether they run, sit, fly or squawk, exposing a trained dog to lots of wild birds is a good thing.

But the days of keeping a stable of pointers permanently banished to an outdoor kennel are essentially over. Most of us keep our dogs in our homes. I do. They’re our pets, our friends, our partners in life as well as the field. That’s why basic obedience is still important. Consider them manners for bird dogs. Dogs that won’t come when called, who won’t sit when told to sit and who jump all over your shell-shocked visitors are no fun to be around. You wouldn’t let your kid tear up the neighborhood playground and behave like a brat, would you? Why would you let your bratty dog get away with the same behavior?

That’s why a certain level of basic obedience should be part of any training program. I’m not talking about teaching a dog to roll over, shake, tap out its age with its front paw or yodel on command. I’m talking about the basics: come, sit, heel, and refusing to let your dog jump on you.

Life Made Easy
I’ve said for years that the two most important commands you can teach a pointing dog are “whoa” and “come.” Teaching your dog to come will make your life at home and in the field easier and far less stressful. Aside from dogs that bust birds and then chase them to Arizona and back, there’s not much I can think of more aggravating than a dog that repeatedly refuses to come when called.

Assuming your dog has been collar conditioned—a critical step that I’ve covered before in this column—getting him up to speed on the “come” command is largely a matter of continuous e-collar reinforcement in a variety of locations.

You start in the same place all obedience training starts: in the yard. Once the dog is recalling there, take him for walks prior to hunting season in a variety of locations: empty fields that may or may not have wild birds; parks; anywhere (obviously, he must always be wearing his e-collar). Adding other dogs is an excellent distraction, as are livestock. Limit yourself to two or three recall commands per trip; more than that and he’ll get sticky. When he’s obeying promptly in these locations, he’s ready for the field.

Don’t let him slide on hunts because he might be getting birdy, is chasing a covey, or whatever. Pick and choose a time when you can actually see him to give the “come” command, and when you give it, have your thumb on the button of your transmitter and use it promptly if he ignores you.

Eventually, he will figure out he can’t win, and most dogs will quit trying. Some won’t, of course; I was one of those kids who never would listen to my parents, and some dogs are the same way. But you’ll be over the hump.

Pointer-training_002

Teaching the dog to come promptly on command takes practice in a variety of locations. And don’t be afraid to use the e-collar.

Avoiding Conflicts
The “sit” command is often misunderstood. Many pointing dog trainers recommend you not teach a bird dog to “sit” at all, since it can interfere with other commands like “whoa.” They’re absolutely right.

But that doesn’t mean it should never be taught. The “sit” command is extremely useful: when you’re trying to get your dog to settle down to put a collar on him, or when you’re trying to get him to hold still to pluck cactus spines out of his pads.

You can avoid conflicts with other commands simply by teaching it last. It’s easy; after months of being schooled in other commands most dogs will learn it in a couple weeks, and if any of you are experimenting with clicker training, this is the perfect command to practice on. Of all the commands I use, this is the only one that doesn’t really require a collar, although there’s certainly nothing wrong with using one.

“Heel” is a command that seems to have gone entirely out of favor among bird hunters. I have no idea why. Over and over again it’s proven its usefulness to me in the field. I’ve had countless instances when I wanted to heel my dogs into an area before turning them loose to hunt, or when I ran into other hunters and dogs in the field, or when I was too close to a road or highway and heeled my dog for his own safety. Heeling a dog at the end of a hunt is a great way to let him know he’s finished and it gives him a chance to settle down prior to the ride home.

Again, training starts in the yard. I use what we here in Montana call a “piggin’ string,” and what the Rick Smith folks call a wonder lead. No matter what they’re called, they work great. I heel my dogs on the left, some people heel them on the right; it doesn’t matter a bit as long as you’re consistent.

As with the “sit” command, most dogs will pick up the “heel” command in a couple weeks. After a week or two on a piggin’ string, I transition the dog to the collar by giving him continuous stimulation while simultaneously pulling him to my side with the string, then immediately releasing the stimulation. I don’t demand perfection; as long as the dog’s at my side I really don’t care if he walks ahead or behind me a couple feet.

Next, it’s time to move to the field, where the command is most useful. Get in the habit of commanding your dog to “heel” at the start and end of each hunt. By the time you’re halfway through the season he should be pretty solid, but once you give him a “heel” command, don’t let him wander away until you release him. If he strays, hit the continuous button until he returns to your side.

Pointer-training_003

Consistently put your knee in the chest of a jumping dog to curtail that bad habit. Use mule kicks if he approaches from behind.

Down Boy
The last obedience command isn’t really a command at all. Rather, it’s just good manners. I don’t let my dogs jump up on me, ever, and work hard at preventing them from jumping on other people, as well.

My method for training a dog not to jump on me is the same one I’ve been using since I was 12 years old: giving it a sharp knee in the chest. It always works and it’s easy. For the dogs that circle around behind me, I’ve gotten good at giving mule kicks with the back of my heel. Most dogs get the message promptly. Getting them to mind their manners with house guests, unfortunately, is considerably harder, and something of an ongoing struggle, at least in the Carty household.

But I keep after it, and you should, too.

  • Kenny

    Wow. This is awful. I'm so glad to see positive trainers beginning to surface in the gundog world.

  • Lissa

    Ditto Kenny, poor dogs, and a lazy way of training. This guy needs to read more and understyand how dogs learn.

    • Nathaniel

      Have you ever seen a mother dog training her pups or an alpha dog establishing dominance? They don't use treats or positive reinforcement. If a mother dog doesn't like what a pup is doing she gives a growl and a nip. An alpha dog will do the same.
      If you have ever watched herding dogs you would see that when a new dog arrives the lead dog will run over to him, pin him down and bark in his ear. This is how he establishes himself as the boss. After that the new dog will do his bidding.
      It’s a matter of balance. If your dog is naturally very responsive then you can use more positive reinforcement; if he is more stubborn, then more discipline/stimulation. Unless your dog in brainless he will figure out what it is that you desire him to do.

  • Tom

    Dave
    An excellent article. I would add the "down" command to the list. I also disagree with the old sit/whoa controversy. They are different commands and just like "come" or "fetch", are taught separately. Any dog of average ability can easily learn both and understand the difference. All my dogs learn to sit to get me to open the door to their kennels, crates or the house, and puppies as young as 10 weeks have no trouble. Of course I run mostly Deutsch- Drahthaars. so I am used to working with above average dogs……

  • Wendy

    I found a lot of tricks to train my dog and so confusing. Is there any different between this trick and some othes sucs as http://dogs-training.chooseourfuture.info

    Thank you.

    Wendy

  • Avalon Flat-Coats

    I guess it depends on the breed of dog. My Flat Coat learned all he needed to learn to earn hunting, obedience and conformation titles without an e-collar – with positive reinforcement only. And that didn't include treats. He's learning agility now, again with only praise and the enjoyment of "playing" with me.

    • Nathaniel

      You are almost right in that it depends on the personality of the dog more than the breed. Gender can also play a role. Male dogs tend to have a bigger problem with dominance and being stubborn while female dogs tend to be more submissive. Some breeds tend to be easier to train than others but it really comes down to the dog. I have two Australian Shepherds and they are supposed to train quickly and easily. The first was a constant battle of wills and ultimately I ended up giving him to a co-worker who had more time, land and other dogs. The dog I currently have is a different story. He has been much better but he still has a problem with stubbornness. We tried to use positive training only when we got him. He started responding only if he felt that the reward was worth the effort. Thus, we started using discipline as well. This has shown marked improvement in his learning that obedience is always the better option.
      It depends on the dog.

  • Thomas

    What is so awful about this? His techniques are totally fine. There is nothing wrong with disciplining your dog. Its a mixture of love, positive reinforcment and discipline that will earn your dogs respect. Great article and great tips, thank you!

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